Charsadda – following the threads of tradition

Afghan Interiors devotees will be familiar with the marvellously warm and soft hand-woven cotton throws sold in our Sydney store. Ideal for picnics, or cosy nights on the couch, they are in fact articles of clothing. The ‘chador’ is the traditional men’s winter shawl, and the best of all are made in the Frontier town of Charsadda.

How to wear your Charsadda chador.

Hand-woven cotton cloth has been a speciality of the area from time immemorial. It mainly consists of the hand-spun variety commonly known in both Pakistan and India as ‘kaddi’ (famously mobilised by Ghandi as an economic weapon against the British and their imported Manchester cottons, and subsequently symbolised by the spinning wheel at the centre of the Indian flag).

However, Charsadda’s speciality is a super-heavy weight version known locally as ‘karandey’.This has the warmth of wool, but is softer. The fact that this developed here is much to do with Charsadda’s position at the junction of the cotton-growing plains of the sub-continent, and the mountains of North West Frontier Province and Afghanistan. Winters are severe, and a warm, washable alternative to wool is highly prized.

Buying Chadors in Charsadda

Weaving in Charsadda is the traditional occupation of a clan of the Mohmand tribe, the Matta Moghul Khel.It is still very much a cottage industry. Most businesses are single weavers with sons and apprentices working on handlooms or small power looms, using a mixture of local hand-spun and imported machine-spun yarns. Production facilities are basic. At present there are around 55 workshops with a total of about 280 looms.

The benefit of hand looms are that they are simply constructed, don’t require electricity and are easy to transport. However, they impose production constraints; eg, it is not possible to tension hand-spun yarn tightly enough to produce bed-sheet width cloth. This requires high quality machine-spun yarn and power broadlooms.

Hand-looms – small scale but greatly adaptable

Afghan Interiors has been supporting this local industry for 15 years, and buys both traditional chadors and the hand-woven striped cloth used to cover our range of mattresses (toshaks) and bolsters, and also for sale by the metre.

Afghan Interiors’ toshak material on the loom.

We are also developing new products, such as dyed and sewn bedcovers, that are possible to produce within the limits of the existing facilities.

We would like to go much further, and scale up this cottage industry into a serious export earner and a provider of jobs. Our associated charity, FDS, has a project to do so, but the peculiar problems posed by Charsadda seem to have so far placed it in the too hard basket with potential donors.

Discussing our order with Haji Sahib. AI customers will recognise the material samples.

The issues broadly revolve around its strategic location. The Charsadda district contains roughly 1.5 million people and is situated on a parallel with the Afghan border 17 miles north of Peshawar. It borders Mohmand Tribal Agency to the west, Bajaur Tribal Agency to the north-west, and the Swat valley to the north-east. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Charsadda_NWFP.svg

All of these regions have been the scene of heavy fighting between radical Islamist groups and the Pakistan Army in recent years, with high and largely unremarked civilian casualties. The two agencies are also now subject to regular American drone-strikes.

As a result, Charsadda is inundated with refugees. Unfortunately, the local economy has simultaneously suffered a sharp contraction due to this same continued insecurity, and the nationwide collapse of the electricity and gas supply. In addition, the area has been hit twice by major flooding in the last three years. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/pakistan/7935485/Pakistan-floods-disaster-is-the-worst-in-the-UNs-history.html . Unemployment is high, arms are plentiful, and Charsadda can be rather dangerous at night.

Ruined houses in Charsadda after the floods of 2010

In these circumstances, it is hardly surprising that aid agencies tend to run a mile when projects in this area are suggested.

However, for those familiar with the local human terrain, the tribal Pathan is mainly conspicuous for his embarrassingly profuse hospitality rather than his supposed surly fanaticism. In the game of smoke-and-mirrors that currently comprises politics on the Frontier, the only real threat of radicalisation is a continued dearth of jobs.

By 2050, Pakistan’s population will exceed 360 million – most of them unemployed.

Sadly, it was not always so. Charsadda, along with the rest of the Vale of Peshawar, is an area of outstanding natural beauty. Its four-season climate, and the fact that it marks the eastern geographical limit of European flora, (elms and oaks grow alongside bananas and mangoes) make it unique.

One of the most vivid memories of those on the overland trail in the 70’s who, like me, travelled from west to east over the dry Iranian plateau, is of descending the Khyber Pass into this lush green paradise, where every conceivable variety of fruit seemed available.

Little wonder that there were hundreds of hippies, plastic or otherwise, living semi-permanently in the Swat Valley during this golden interlude, before the wars began. Now the guesthouses and hotels have long closed, and no tourists have been seen in the region for many years.

Indeed, going further back into history, this same agricultural richness made Charsadda and its environs a famous name, and a seat of empires.

It seems to have been founded around 1400BC by the Aryans as they poured down the Indus valley on their way to occupy India, and is mentioned in the Rig-Veda. Its position at the confluence of three rivers, the Jindi, the Swat and the Kabul, gave it special spiritual significance to these water-obsessed people, as it did later to Buddhism. An excellent book on this subject is ‘Empires of the Indus’, by Alice Albinia http://www.soas.ac.uk/csp/events/seminars/06dec2012-empires-of-the-indus-the-story-of-a-river-.html

Later, Charsadda formed one of the eastern satrapies of the Persian empire, until it was besieged and conquered by Alexander the Great in 324BC on the final phase of his march to the Indus.

Subsequently Charsadda entered into its golden period as the capital of the Gandharan empire, an entity that existed under various dynasties from the 6th century BC to the 2nd century AD. An early (actually the original) centre of Buddhism, during its later phases it produced a remarkable artistic synthesis by incorporating Buddhist iconography with the Greek classicism of the Seleucids, Alexander’s successors in Central Asia. The Art Gallery of NSW contains some fine examples of these startlingly beautiful Buddhas with European faces. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gandhara

To this day, the area around Charsadda is littered with Buddhist monuments. There is actually a major stupa in the middle of the Khyber Pass.

We seem to have strayed a long way from the subject of chadors. But they represent a connecting thread, via the artistic and practical genius of its people, to one of the most attractive yet most neglected regions on earth.

A warm Pathan welcome from children in Charsadda.

Afghan Interiors will continue to do its bit to maintain an economic lifeline, and I look forward to being able to offer anyone interested tours to the region as soon as events permit, which is presumably when those orchestrating the current military pantomime find themselves something more constructive to do.

Blood on the Carpet Part 2

Michael is visiting his old haunt, the Khyber Bazar carpet market in Peshawar.

The Khyber Bazar is now sadly shrunken. During the 1990s, over 15 separate markets, each comprising of dozens of small dealers, bustled ceaselessly as carpets arrived from Afghanistan in be-spangled trucks or by the donkey-load. From their roofs came a constant racket of hammering as the brilliant patchworks of newly washed and stretched pieces were laid out to dry and fade in the sun.

Packing the bundles. Each bundle weighs approximately 50-80kg and in the case of this market, is carried down three flights of stairs by “shouldermen” to the waiting pick-up truck for transport to Peshawar dry port.

Inside Sadat market, carpets are piled to the ceiling in every shop awaiting selection. We bought the Yomud kelim halfway down the pile.

Today the Bazar has now shrunk to only three markets, the Shan, the Kamran and the Sadat. Times are hard, and rampant inflation has increased the price of basics such as flour and oil to the point where even the frugal Afghan who sleeps on the floor of his shop amid the towering piles of carpets and eats only one meal a day, cooked in the hissing pressure cookers out in the corridors, has trouble making ends meet.

The best bread in the Bazar. Uzbeki nan being sold outside the Rose Hotel.

On arrival in Kamran market, I popped into Haji Abdul Rehman’s shop, only to find him being bandaged after a business dispute with his neighbour, Haji Nuraddin, which ended with the latter picking up a pair of heavy carpet shears and stabbing him several times in the head and neck.

With alacrity, still covered in blood, he immediately sprang free of his friends to begin spreading stacks of carpets for selection in front of me. There is nothing much tougher than an Afghan. I told him to sit down and I’d come back later.

 

A welcoming committee of fellow carpet dealers inside Haji Mirgul’s shop.

In fact, I made a point of going round and buying something from everyone in the bazaar.  Piled onto the problems caused by the war and hyperinflation, the lack of regular customers in the past year has led to desperate shopkeepers falling foul of middlemen coming across the border from India, who have taken carpets on credit and then promptly disappeared with the goods and with no intention to pay. I’m told that Afghan rugs in Delhi are currently selling for the same prices as Sydney.

Afghan Interiors is a commercial enterprise, but one that operates in a Hogarthian world far removed from the shiny shopping mall and ruthless accountancy of modern retailing. In this world, by necessity, trade depends on trust, credit and long-term personal relationships.

Every man must make a living, and there are easier ones to be made elsewhere. However, as I sit down on the carpet to share a dinner of kabob and Kabuli pulao with these old Afghan friends, I feel that we are sharing something more than just trade, a dimension of meaning absent from many other types of enterprise.

More so in that the goods in which we deal are the last beautiful and very poignant remnants of a pre-modern world.

Readers may be aware that Michael also operates a charity called FDS on the Frontier. This presents its own challenges in a country whose virtual sole growth industry is fraudulent NGOs.

 However, FDS’s main assumption is that aid is best delivered through assisted commercial enterprises where transparency is naturally provided by the discipline of the market, in other words, the organised modernisation of products for export that place the profits directly back in the hands of the makers and their families. See www.frontiersupport.org .

We will report the progress of these efforts in this blog in future posts.

Blood on the Carpet Part 1

After much obstruction from well-meaning friends fearing for his safety, Michael has finally reached the source of Afghan Interiors’ oriental rug supply, the Khyber Bazaar in Peshawar, KyhberPaktunkhwa*, in order to buy goods for our new container.

The Khyber Bazar has been the Central Asian region’s main wholesale market for carpets and kilims since it moved en masse to Peshawar from its old location in Kabul during the Russian War in the 1980s.

Most of the dealers are Afghans, and present the full wonderful variety of ethnicity of that country: hawk-nosed and heavily bearded Pathans, Mongoloid and creamy-skinned Hazara, the broad-features and narrow eyes of the Uzbeks and Turkomen, and, occasionally, the arrestingly European face of the Tadjik, whose green eyes and freckled white complexion sometimes give you the momentary impression you’ve just bumped into someone you went to school with.

 

Khyber Bazar: broken down outside the Kamran market at dusk – not a comfortable moment.

Peshawar’s Khyber Bazar’s golden age was during the late 1990s and early 2000s. For nearly 20 years, this kaleidoscopic frontier trading town was the merry meeting place of carpet dealers from all over the world, Bruce from London, Tom from California, Zubin from Calgary, who after work would gather in the bar of the Pearl Continental to drink and rub shoulders with dealers of even more exotic commodities; sausage-skins, counterfeit American currency, fake cigarettes, weapons-grade plutonium, and most memorably, the Red Mercury Men. ‘What is red mercury?’ “We don’t know, Michael! But it comes from Russia and is worth 30 million rupees a gram!”

Sadly, the good times in Peshawar dwindled as the American War ground on. The economy suffered a slow-motion collapse, and levels of insecurity rose. The bar in the Pearl Continental Hotel was closed down by the mullahs, and a couple of years later the corner of the building was blown off by the Taliban. Foreigners stopped coming, and even many of the local dealers, fed up with routine kidnapping and extortion demands, have left for the Gulf or have gone back to Kabul to sell carpets to Allied soldiers.

 

The bus to Bara, Khyber Agency. Note protective fundamentalist black flags on top.

Upon my arrival on this trip I was greeted warmly by my friends, who then immediately enquired, ‘But Michael, what are you doing here?’ Apparently there have been no western buyers in Peshawar since my last visit in Nov 2011.

The Northwest Frontier: Khyber Agency just outside Peshawar. Afghanistan lies just over the mountains

 *KPK is probably still better known by its former name of North West Frontier Province. This two-year old name-change was designed as a gesture towards Pathan sensibilities by Pakistan’s Punjabi and Sindhi-dominated government, (KPK actually means Khyber, land of the Pathans), but it sadly backfired as the province is also home to numerous other ethnic minorities, such as the Hazara community in the region between Haripur and Abbottabad, for instance, who have been up in arms ever since. In Pakistan, seldom does a good deed go unpunished, or for that matter, a piece of meaningless spin either.